Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it joins a international community of cities cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic food ecosystem," as stated by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently shaped its soul: an immense passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – lesser-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and involved. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however say that their younger generation do not want to take up the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
